I walked along these paths several time and in different periods, and everytime I have gained new feelings and joy. In June, for instance, the heat has already yellowed the grass on our lowlands, but over here the air smells of thyme, the slope of the mountains are covered by flowering peonies, fox-glowes, and many other species of flowers. In some places there are some rare plants that flower between rocks and stones.

During this time of the year, the sheepfolds scattered in the mountains open again after being shut and uninhabited during the winter season because the cold and the constant presence of snow make the pastures impassable. The air is full of the sounds and noises of the flocks of sheep spread on the slants. During this period it is very easy to sight flocks of muflons at pasturage during the coldest hours of the day or under the shelter of the large a thick alders that can be found in every canyon of the Gennargentu.

Spring, is certainly the best period of the year to visit such a rich and unique environment for the first time. I therefore suggest to be patient before embarking on this excursion. However, since we are in winter I would like to remind to those who would like to go there now, perhaps after some snow has fallen, that it is not by chance that the shepherds and their flocks leave the area during the cold season. I can assure you that when the bad weather comes and affects those mountains, it can be very dangerous to be taken by surprise far from any shelter and unprepared for any emergency. I suggest the highest level of caution, to be in a good physical condition and have proper gear in order to be able to face rapid changes of the weather.

The destination of our excursion is situated just below the Punta La Marmora, on the Desulo side of Gennargentu. It can be reached either from the road that connects Aritzo to the pass of Tascusi', or from the village of Desulo through a splendid country road hidden within a thick forest of chestnut trees. Our starting point, the Arch of Guddetorgiu can be reached by either way.

The first time we undertook this enterprise was at the end of April in a year when the snow was still on the top of the highest mountains. This was a strong invitation to travel and have an adventure. The clear sky, of that dark blue colour that can be found only at that altitude, and the fresh air were almost in contrast with each other, but they touched the most hidden chords with their surprising mixing and with the smell of essence.

It was almost May, but over there it was still winter, and the peonies were showing the first buds whilst waiting for the spring that was announcing itself to be colourful. We were walking along the track to "Su Sciusciu" and all around there were streams gushing out of the rocks and soaking the green moss. We stopped during the route to let ourselves get caught by the beauty of the streams flowing through old holly and majestic bushes, jumping through granite stones and into deep crystal pools.

We arrived at one lay-by where the road turned into a steep and rough descent. That was the end of our journey on four wheels. In front of us "Su Sciusciu" and behind, in the background, was the Gennargentu fully covered with snow. The sound track of those images was the sound of the abundant water flowing inside every little valley and every gully, the wind passing through the bare branches of the trees which was making the odorous shrubs rustle.

We remained standing looking with or binoculars to that immensity. Su Sciusciu seemed immense and far to reach, but anyway we decided to go. Almost at once we left the track, which was going to take us on a longer route, passing near to the sheepfold "Meriagus", the last remaining one in use at that altitude during the summer season. We decided to shorten our journey by leaving the path, crossing the river that was running loudly on the bottom of the gully, and by ascending the slope. The walk was rather easy, even though very steep. We were passing near majestic bushes, which have escaped from the hard and intensive exploitation pursued by man during the centuries, and which have remained the silent witnesses of the forest that used to cover those mountains up to the top.

After half an hour we eventually reached the "outpost" closest to the destination: a small hill half way up the side of the mountain, where there is a small masonry building, which contains the uptake of a high altitude spring. Another five have been built and connected to each other through an underground pipe. This has lead to a long "wound " that cuts the lower part of the beautiful stream of stones, and affects, event though only partially, the charming beauty of the place.

Certainly, the quality of life for the people is important, and it is clear that it is almost impossible to reach it without having to pay a price. However, the question that arose spontaneously was whether it was possible to think of a way to accomplish the same useful and necessary piece of work without having to charge such a high price to the nature, which is so strong and grand but yet so delicate and fragile.

We considering this problem while we were resting for a while to get our breath back. We took the rucksacks off and we wrapped ourselves inside our wind-jackets in order not to let our bodies get cold, because the icy wind was still constantly blowing. We stayed there for a little while, admiring that immensity.

Su Sciusciu appeared to us like a huge and crumbled mountain, and those granite "crumbs", coloured by the lichen with pastel gradations, made us feel small and harmless creatures. We were climbing quite easily, and the first impression was that huge mass of rock could suddenly move wiping us out. However, this impression vanished almost immediately and we became part of that place, so wild, but so sweet.

Ancient specimens of the Mediterranean flora of this altitude survive on that river of rocks and stones. Many very old groups roverelle, juniper, and yew vegetate there. The few areas with soil within the stones, were beginning to get coloured with the flashing yellow of the anemones, which were beginning to substitute the precocious blooming of wild zafferan that sometimes flowers under the February snow.

Then, we were attracted by a hollow sound coming from the inside of that "crumbled" mountain. It was without any doubt the roar produced by the violent and wild running of a stream. Because we could hear it so clearly, at first we were rather afraid of facing such a natural manifestation. We stopped to listen, bending down almost with our ears on the rocks. We were so fascinated by the happening that we stayed there for several minutes.

Still we ask ourselves what mysteries, what meanders and deep gorges, which give life and swallow rivers of water, are hidden beneath that immensity of stones smoothed and modelled by the slow but constant action of the atmospheric agents. Suddenly the light became grey and the sky was full of not to reassuring clouds, which made the air gloomy and the place almost inhospitable. We were ready to walk again. A royal eagle appeared from the highest crest, and soon disappeared after a wide circle over our heads followed by two carrion-crows.

That was the end of the first visit to that little but nevertheless immense corner of Sardinia, and mother nature couldn't have given us a better farewell.

In Aritzo, you can find a very good reception in a very relaxing environment, at the hotel La Capannina in 36, Maxia Street (tel.0784/629121). For those who would prefer to stay in Desulo, we suggest the Albergo La Nuova in La Marmora Street (tel.0784/619251), which is a more "homely", but nevertheless is quiet and comfortable, accommodation.